Michael Crolene
Value Wine: De Loach Pinot Noir 2009
Heritage Reserve $15-

So 2009 seems to be a solid year for both cool weather and hot weather wines in California. A fresher, younger year than 2007 apparently. 

Without denigrating this wine, let it be known that this is not a huge, complicated Pinot. It is a simple wine, but balanced, and believe it or not rates only half a point lower than bottles of wine 10 times the price.

Lots of berry on the nose. Very fresh, strawberry, red cherry and candied raspberry on the palate. Just a hint of oak comes through, showing a touch of vanilla midpalate. The finish is clean and devoid of any tannic structure, making this more of a fish/chicken Pinot than a wine for heartier fare. Drink now. 87 points.

Value Wine: De Loach Pinot Noir 2009
Heritage Reserve $15-

So 2009 seems to be a solid year for both cool weather and hot weather wines in California. A fresher, younger year than 2007 apparently.

Without denigrating this wine, let it be known that this is not a huge, complicated Pinot. It is a simple wine, but balanced, and believe it or not rates only half a point lower than bottles of wine 10 times the price.

Lots of berry on the nose. Very fresh, strawberry, red cherry and candied raspberry on the palate. Just a hint of oak comes through, showing a touch of vanilla midpalate. The finish is clean and devoid of any tannic structure, making this more of a fish/chicken Pinot than a wine for heartier fare. Drink now. 87 points.

Castle Rock California Cuvée Pinot Noir 2009

Castle Rock is a solid producer. Their baseline wines are uncomplicated but generally faultless and a safe bet for an impromptu dinner.

A simple wine. Fresh red berries, strawberry, raspberry, with a candied midpalate. Acidity is low and the finish is short and clean, with hints of toasted caramel.

Castle Rock California Cuvée Pinot Noir 2009

Castle Rock is a solid producer. Their baseline wines are uncomplicated but generally faultless and a safe bet for an impromptu dinner.

A simple wine. Fresh red berries, strawberry, raspberry, with a candied midpalate. Acidity is low and the finish is short and clean, with hints of toasted caramel.

Massive Tasting: Part 1 30 and 4
Occasionally, in my line of business, an opportunity presents itself to taste a bunch of wines. Industry Distributers really want to move a lot of product, and to facilitate this they employ representatives to hold tastings for retail professionals. Often these tastings are limited and private affairs, put on by solitary reps in the back rooms of wine stores the world over. However on occasion, larger Distributers will have a mass tasting, specifically for their larger volume clients. I happen to work for such a retailer (Which will remain unnamed) and as a Wine Enthusiast am given priority attendance to them and boy are they important. I’d say that I have sold $100,000 worth of product, bottle-by-bottle, based entirely on wines I had at such tastings. While my palate is not the most refined, I can say with great certainty that my selections have a less than .1% return rate. Which is funny because the rate of corked bottles in the industry at large probably exceeds this.
Despite what you may think, these tastings are not all fun and games (except for sincere masochists like myself). A serious focus is necessary as one’s palate and inherent desire to taste wine can be fried and shaken by such overwhelming abundance. Actually to be honest I enjoy the challenge of getting as many wines under my belt as possible, it expands my knowledge of varietal as well as regional character.
Many people scoff at the image of a snooty Somm, taking tender sips of a wine, then spitting it into a gilded bucket. The reactions to this range from incomprehension to disgust, but I can assure you it is definitely necessary.
Even when spitting wine, some is absorbed through the soft tissues in the mouth, and can lead to a mild tipsy intoxication. If swallowed, however, every wine mentioned below would account for 1.5-2 ounces each. Mathematically that adds up to around 2 bottles consumed within one hour. Not only would I be hammered halfway through, but more than likely also fired, so I spit.
Keeping focused in a room full of talkative wine people is not easy, less so when clamoring for limited cheese and the well stocked wine tables. Representatives love talking about their wines and can grow long winded with respect to our one-hour tasting time-limit.
Without further stalling for time, the Wines, and a simple synopsis of flavors and point scores. I apologize for omitting vintage, please presume the vintages available at the time of this post’s publication.
Louis M. Martini Sonoma Cabernet: 
Redfruited, hint of oak toast, structured, tannic 88pts.
Louis M. Martini Napa Cab:
Riper fruit than Sonoma, Lush, similar level of structure, Balanced. Outstanding 90
Dry Creek Sonoma Cab:
Ripe Red and Black Fruit, integrated structure, Balanced Palate, Great 89
Frei Brothers Alexander Valley Cab:
Some fruit, cinnamon, green pepper, drying tannins, last year was better 88
Catena Malbec Mendoza: 
Floral, Blackberry, clean midpalate, integrated finish, Simple 88
Merryvale Starmont Cab:
Sour Cherry, Raspberry, very dry, tannic 87
Alamos Malbec:
Simple Floral, Clean midpalate, missing structure, crowd pleaser 87
Apothic Red:
Very fruity, red and black berry fruit, raisiny finish, no backbone 86
Clos Pegase Merlot:
Very approachable, clean fruit, fresh plum, hint of cocoa 88
La Merika Pinot Noir:
Hot nose, strawberry and raspberry on the palate, whisper of acid 88
Lunatic Red Blend:
Very ripe flavors, fresh or candied raspberry, hint of tannic structure nice 88
Beringer Merlot Reserve:
Rounded Plum, some black cherry, very ripe, minus finish good 89
Garnet Chardonnay:
Stone fruit, hints of tropical, almost off-dry lovely 89
BV Rutherford Cab:
Hot Red Currant, great length, nice acidity, some oaky tannins 89
Beringer Knights Valley Meritage:
Great extraction, clean berry and currant notes, up front, tannic 89
Starborough Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand:
Tropical pineapple, Lime, very crisp zing, possible mineral hint in finish 90
Ghost Pines Chardonnay:
Oaky citrus, lemon, lime. Actually some wood tannins on this one 86
J Lohr Riverstone Chardonnay:
Vanilla nose, creamy ripe peach attack, simple delightful 88
Mac Murray Pinot Noir:
Odd Malic Pear flavor, some berry notes, hint of green vegetal finish 87
Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc: (quick note Fume in the U.S. is barrel aged Sauv)
Citrus up front, Lime, creamy midpalate into stony peach finish Nice 88
Condes de Alberai Albarino:
White Peach, apricot, light lime acidity, very rounded Great 89
Ben Marco Malbec:
Brilliant black fruit, balanced acidity, medium length finish Great 90
Sweet Moscato:
Floral, Peach, not cloying sweetness, just right 86
Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay:
Oaky, green apple, non existent acidity flabby 87
La Marca Prosecco:
Medium Mousse, very pronounced Apple, clean floral mid, perfect for cocktails 86
Mumm Napa Brut Prestige:
Finer Mousse, toasty almond, very old world, good grip, dry finish 89
Brancott Sauvignon Blanc NZ:
Powerful lemon/lime citrus, goosey, grapefruit, short finish 87
Tapiz Tradicional Blend: (mostly replacing their Merlot)
Hot black fruit, cedar, short finish, some acidity, uncomplicated 87
Graffigna Malbec Reserve:
Ripe Blackberry, cinnamon spice, a touch of acidity, very balanced 89-90
Coppola Diamond Claret:
Black Currant, structured, medium bodied, oak and fruit is balanced 88
I also had Harthill Farm Cabernet with dinner at Casa Joel and it showed remarkable varietal characteristics for a $5 wine. Not bad for the price.
30+ wines over a 4 hour period is daunting but doable. Make sure to cleanse the palate with a nice mild cheese and some crackers, keep your nose in the glass, and take notes.
Huzzah!

Massive Tasting: Part 1 30 and 4

Occasionally, in my line of business, an opportunity presents itself to taste a bunch of wines. Industry Distributers really want to move a lot of product, and to facilitate this they employ representatives to hold tastings for retail professionals. Often these tastings are limited and private affairs, put on by solitary reps in the back rooms of wine stores the world over. However on occasion, larger Distributers will have a mass tasting, specifically for their larger volume clients. I happen to work for such a retailer (Which will remain unnamed) and as a Wine Enthusiast am given priority attendance to them and boy are they important. I’d say that I have sold $100,000 worth of product, bottle-by-bottle, based entirely on wines I had at such tastings. While my palate is not the most refined, I can say with great certainty that my selections have a less than .1% return rate. Which is funny because the rate of corked bottles in the industry at large probably exceeds this.

Despite what you may think, these tastings are not all fun and games (except for sincere masochists like myself). A serious focus is necessary as one’s palate and inherent desire to taste wine can be fried and shaken by such overwhelming abundance. Actually to be honest I enjoy the challenge of getting as many wines under my belt as possible, it expands my knowledge of varietal as well as regional character.

Many people scoff at the image of a snooty Somm, taking tender sips of a wine, then spitting it into a gilded bucket. The reactions to this range from incomprehension to disgust, but I can assure you it is definitely necessary.

Even when spitting wine, some is absorbed through the soft tissues in the mouth, and can lead to a mild tipsy intoxication. If swallowed, however, every wine mentioned below would account for 1.5-2 ounces each. Mathematically that adds up to around 2 bottles consumed within one hour. Not only would I be hammered halfway through, but more than likely also fired, so I spit.

Keeping focused in a room full of talkative wine people is not easy, less so when clamoring for limited cheese and the well stocked wine tables. Representatives love talking about their wines and can grow long winded with respect to our one-hour tasting time-limit.

Without further stalling for time, the Wines, and a simple synopsis of flavors and point scores. I apologize for omitting vintage, please presume the vintages available at the time of this post’s publication.

Louis M. Martini Sonoma Cabernet:

Redfruited, hint of oak toast, structured, tannic 88pts.

Louis M. Martini Napa Cab:

Riper fruit than Sonoma, Lush, similar level of structure, Balanced. Outstanding 90

Dry Creek Sonoma Cab:

Ripe Red and Black Fruit, integrated structure, Balanced Palate, Great 89

Frei Brothers Alexander Valley Cab:

Some fruit, cinnamon, green pepper, drying tannins, last year was better 88

Catena Malbec Mendoza:

Floral, Blackberry, clean midpalate, integrated finish, Simple 88

Merryvale Starmont Cab:

Sour Cherry, Raspberry, very dry, tannic 87

Alamos Malbec:

Simple Floral, Clean midpalate, missing structure, crowd pleaser 87

Apothic Red:

Very fruity, red and black berry fruit, raisiny finish, no backbone 86

Clos Pegase Merlot:

Very approachable, clean fruit, fresh plum, hint of cocoa 88

La Merika Pinot Noir:

Hot nose, strawberry and raspberry on the palate, whisper of acid 88

Lunatic Red Blend:

Very ripe flavors, fresh or candied raspberry, hint of tannic structure nice 88

Beringer Merlot Reserve:

Rounded Plum, some black cherry, very ripe, minus finish good 89

Garnet Chardonnay:

Stone fruit, hints of tropical, almost off-dry lovely 89

BV Rutherford Cab:

Hot Red Currant, great length, nice acidity, some oaky tannins 89

Beringer Knights Valley Meritage:

Great extraction, clean berry and currant notes, up front, tannic 89

Starborough Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand:

Tropical pineapple, Lime, very crisp zing, possible mineral hint in finish 90

Ghost Pines Chardonnay:

Oaky citrus, lemon, lime. Actually some wood tannins on this one 86

J Lohr Riverstone Chardonnay:

Vanilla nose, creamy ripe peach attack, simple delightful 88

Mac Murray Pinot Noir:

Odd Malic Pear flavor, some berry notes, hint of green vegetal finish 87

Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc: (quick note Fume in the U.S. is barrel aged Sauv)

Citrus up front, Lime, creamy midpalate into stony peach finish Nice 88

Condes de Alberai Albarino:

White Peach, apricot, light lime acidity, very rounded Great 89

Ben Marco Malbec:

Brilliant black fruit, balanced acidity, medium length finish Great 90

Sweet Moscato:

Floral, Peach, not cloying sweetness, just right 86

Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay:

Oaky, green apple, non existent acidity flabby 87

La Marca Prosecco:

Medium Mousse, very pronounced Apple, clean floral mid, perfect for cocktails 86

Mumm Napa Brut Prestige:

Finer Mousse, toasty almond, very old world, good grip, dry finish 89

Brancott Sauvignon Blanc NZ:

Powerful lemon/lime citrus, goosey, grapefruit, short finish 87

Tapiz Tradicional Blend: (mostly replacing their Merlot)

Hot black fruit, cedar, short finish, some acidity, uncomplicated 87

Graffigna Malbec Reserve:

Ripe Blackberry, cinnamon spice, a touch of acidity, very balanced 89-90

Coppola Diamond Claret:

Black Currant, structured, medium bodied, oak and fruit is balanced 88

I also had Harthill Farm Cabernet with dinner at Casa Joel and it showed remarkable varietal characteristics for a $5 wine. Not bad for the price.

30+ wines over a 4 hour period is daunting but doable. Make sure to cleanse the palate with a nice mild cheese and some crackers, keep your nose in the glass, and take notes.

Huzzah!

Library Wines: Part 5 The Betutu’d Wrestler

Belle Glos Pinot Noir Taylor Lane Vineyard ‘04 $40-50

Wow, where to start? 
Dave’s buddy Matt is visiting town for work and wanted to come hang out at the Hideaway and drink some wine.
I heard news of this and made certain to  pick up a nice Italian finger food combo and a Brie. I did not know what Dave would open so I made sure to cover all my bases. Always be prepared for any eventuality. 

So Matt and Dave are in the kitchen when I arrive, Ari (Dave’s Fiance) is watching some tele. Greetings and hugs and small-talk inspire Dave to say “What do we drink?” 
Ohhhh the possibilities!
Well a more important question is: What do we need to drink soon?
Dave asks that very question and we break out the “Drink Now” List.

There are quite a few options, some with serious pedigree, but we are looking for past-peak wines. Wines that not only wouldn’t generally benefit from additional aging, but might actually decline if not consumed immediately.

Oh to have such problems, thankfully we are eager-eyed wine pirates, thoroughly up to the task.

There is a Pinot Noir, of high reputation, the drinking window closed in 2010.

Belle Glos Pinot Noir Taylor Lane ‘04
It is almost as though a beam of light came shining down on that bottle as it emerged from the belly of Dave’s cellar.
The top of the bottle is utterly enrobed in a clean-lined red wax seal, an expensive detail that hints at a winemaker’s intention for age.

Red wax is not common in wine, and can at times be the ultimate enemy of a sommelier trying to exhibit some grace. If the pull tab fails, or worse, there is no pull tab; you must literally grind away at it until you uncover the cork.
There is nothing worse than having wax floaters in your wine glass, so the lip of the bottle must be made immaculate.
This complication actually makes the wine more age worthy than it might otherwise be, due to the restriction of oxygen to the cork and thus, the bottle’s contents.

We feared that this wine would be declining but our fears were ludicrously unfounded. It was outlandishly magnificent, gripping, a tour-de-force.
It was like the best movie you ever saw.

Now I am ashamed to have ever underestimated Pinot Noir as a thin lightly flavored red wine. There are places in the world, ladies and gentlemen, where Pinot Noir becomes a gigantic beastly amalgamation of insane power and utter genteel grace and nobility. It is like a pro-wrestler, wearing a tutu, crossing and uncrossing his legs flawlessly as he jumps through the air. It is pure spectacle, and a wine like this one, will make a wine lover out of anyone. Anyone.

This wine is like adult candy. Candied Strawberry and Wild Cherry fruits jump out of the glass. I could sit and sniff this wine until my bones become rickety and my beard grows long and gray. If I could sit in a little monk’s cell, eat gruel and stale bread, and sniff this wine for the rest of my life I would seriously consider it. After maybe 10 minutes of sniffing it I took a sip.

On the palate is was no less plush and lingering, brilliant candied fruit, edging on the cooked. Completely melted into a hint of brilliant acidity, and a mild vanilla note is this amazing Candied Fruit! Utterly integrated, the flavors reach into your brain and reconfigure it towards contemplation and sensory awareness.
It is meditation in a glass, and though perhaps not as deeply complex as a Grand Cru Burgundy, this Pinot has made a believer out of me.

It was such rank despair as the bottle ran dry, literally every last drop wrung from it like we were parched men of the desert, drinking the last canteen.

Dave, once again donning his hero mantle volunteered another bottle to help us finish the last of the Salami and provolone. I suggested comparing the Grand Cru California with a lesser designation Pinot from our fair state.

Buena Vista Carneros Pinot Noir ‘07
$10-20 (you can still find this)

Alluding to that earlier-mentioned lighter style Pinot, this wine nonetheless carried itself well after the ghost of the Taylor Lane finally dissipated.

Ripe Cherry, some strawberry undertones, an almost conspicuous lack of bracing acidity, and a far grosser application of oak is evident in a smokey barbecue finish. These rough edges smoothed on the second glass and I proclaim this wine to be quite tasty. Though I am forever ruined for lesser Pinots after that marvelous Belle Glos.

So anyway, the lesson here is: Not all wines decline as fast as common perception says they should, wax is annoying but worth it, and go buy yourself some Belle Glos Pinot Noir.
You can get their “value” wine Meiomi for $15-20
The Taylor Lane, Las Alturas, and Clark & Telephone single vineyards go for $40-50 
And the grand Dame “Belle Glos” (best grapes of all) goes for $50-70 

Get
Yours

Library Wines: Part 5 The Betutu’d Wrestler

Belle Glos Pinot Noir Taylor Lane Vineyard ‘04 $40-50

Wow, where to start?
Dave’s buddy Matt is visiting town for work and wanted to come hang out at the Hideaway and drink some wine.
I heard news of this and made certain to pick up a nice Italian finger food combo and a Brie. I did not know what Dave would open so I made sure to cover all my bases. Always be prepared for any eventuality.

So Matt and Dave are in the kitchen when I arrive, Ari (Dave’s Fiance) is watching some tele. Greetings and hugs and small-talk inspire Dave to say “What do we drink?”
Ohhhh the possibilities!
Well a more important question is: What do we need to drink soon?
Dave asks that very question and we break out the “Drink Now” List.

There are quite a few options, some with serious pedigree, but we are looking for past-peak wines. Wines that not only wouldn’t generally benefit from additional aging, but might actually decline if not consumed immediately.

Oh to have such problems, thankfully we are eager-eyed wine pirates, thoroughly up to the task.

There is a Pinot Noir, of high reputation, the drinking window closed in 2010.

Belle Glos Pinot Noir Taylor Lane ‘04
It is almost as though a beam of light came shining down on that bottle as it emerged from the belly of Dave’s cellar.
The top of the bottle is utterly enrobed in a clean-lined red wax seal, an expensive detail that hints at a winemaker’s intention for age.

Red wax is not common in wine, and can at times be the ultimate enemy of a sommelier trying to exhibit some grace. If the pull tab fails, or worse, there is no pull tab; you must literally grind away at it until you uncover the cork.
There is nothing worse than having wax floaters in your wine glass, so the lip of the bottle must be made immaculate.
This complication actually makes the wine more age worthy than it might otherwise be, due to the restriction of oxygen to the cork and thus, the bottle’s contents.

We feared that this wine would be declining but our fears were ludicrously unfounded. It was outlandishly magnificent, gripping, a tour-de-force.
It was like the best movie you ever saw.

Now I am ashamed to have ever underestimated Pinot Noir as a thin lightly flavored red wine. There are places in the world, ladies and gentlemen, where Pinot Noir becomes a gigantic beastly amalgamation of insane power and utter genteel grace and nobility. It is like a pro-wrestler, wearing a tutu, crossing and uncrossing his legs flawlessly as he jumps through the air. It is pure spectacle, and a wine like this one, will make a wine lover out of anyone. Anyone.

This wine is like adult candy. Candied Strawberry and Wild Cherry fruits jump out of the glass. I could sit and sniff this wine until my bones become rickety and my beard grows long and gray. If I could sit in a little monk’s cell, eat gruel and stale bread, and sniff this wine for the rest of my life I would seriously consider it. After maybe 10 minutes of sniffing it I took a sip.

On the palate is was no less plush and lingering, brilliant candied fruit, edging on the cooked. Completely melted into a hint of brilliant acidity, and a mild vanilla note is this amazing Candied Fruit! Utterly integrated, the flavors reach into your brain and reconfigure it towards contemplation and sensory awareness.
It is meditation in a glass, and though perhaps not as deeply complex as a Grand Cru Burgundy, this Pinot has made a believer out of me.

It was such rank despair as the bottle ran dry, literally every last drop wrung from it like we were parched men of the desert, drinking the last canteen.

Dave, once again donning his hero mantle volunteered another bottle to help us finish the last of the Salami and provolone. I suggested comparing the Grand Cru California with a lesser designation Pinot from our fair state.

Buena Vista Carneros Pinot Noir ‘07
$10-20 (you can still find this)

Alluding to that earlier-mentioned lighter style Pinot, this wine nonetheless carried itself well after the ghost of the Taylor Lane finally dissipated.

Ripe Cherry, some strawberry undertones, an almost conspicuous lack of bracing acidity, and a far grosser application of oak is evident in a smokey barbecue finish. These rough edges smoothed on the second glass and I proclaim this wine to be quite tasty. Though I am forever ruined for lesser Pinots after that marvelous Belle Glos.

So anyway, the lesson here is: Not all wines decline as fast as common perception says they should, wax is annoying but worth it, and go buy yourself some Belle Glos Pinot Noir.
You can get their “value” wine Meiomi for $15-20
The Taylor Lane, Las Alturas, and Clark & Telephone single vineyards go for $40-50 
And the grand Dame “Belle Glos” (best grapes of all) goes for $50-70 

Get
Yours